This article from FT Globetrotter is part of a guide to Hong Kong and a new cycling series running all summer on exploring great cities by bicycle
When I first started cycling in Hong Kong more than 15 years ago, I almost felt ashamed to admit my hobby to others.
At the time, it was a treacherous activity. Double-decker buses competed to see how close they could pass without knocking you off, while trucks did not seem to see you at all. Off road, the rocky staircases on Hong Kong’s mountain-bike trails meant the chances of not getting bucked off on each outing were about the same as those of an amateur bull-rider in a rodeo.
Fast-forward to today and, while the traffic can still be hazardous, the buses and taxis seem to give you a wide berth. The government has also overhauled the mountain-bike trails to remove some of the worst neck-breakers.
That has opened up Hong Kong riding to a wider group of people, many of whom are surprised at the world-class routes in this densely packed urban jungle. Within minutes of leaving home on Hong Kong Island, you can be climbing through verdant hills, enjoying sweeping sea views or, in just an hour, mountain-biking through lush vegetation on an outlying island.
For those who like climbing, few big cities offer so much elevation in such a compact area as Hong Kong. Needless to say, geared bikes are essential. For those seeking flatter roads or more family-friendly rides, there are extensive cycle paths in Hong Kong’s New Territories.
The best season for two wheels is between October and April, during the cooler months. For the rest of the year, moisture-wicking clothing, water and sports drinks are indispensable. Also, on Hong Kong Island, ride early to avoid traffic. On the mountain-bike trails, take plenty of snacks, puncture repairs, a multi-tool and a full CamelBak-style water bladder.
Shops such as Sky Blue rent out road bikes (better but not essential on Routes 1 and 2), while Friendly Bicycle Shop in Mui Wo offers mountain bikes (essential for Routes 3 and 4, preferably dual suspension). Distances and elevation are according to my personal Strava.
The routes
1. Road ride on Hong Kong Island: The Peak to Big Wave Bay (about 70km, 1,480m ascent)
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Good for: hill climbing
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Not so good for: single-speed bikes
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FYI: as you ride up Wong Nai Chung Gap Road, look out for the West Brigade Headquarters on the other side of the road. In December 1941, during the Japanese invasion of Hong Kong, Canadian Brigadier John Lawson was killed here after radioing to say: “They are all around us. I’m going outside to fight it out.”
If you are visiting Hong Kong and have time for only one ride, the 552-metre Victoria Peak is a must. There are no bike lanes, so you will need to ride on the paved roads with the traffic. At the crack of dawn, you will see plenty of fellow cyclists riding up.
Start near the Sikh temple on Lower Stubbs Road in Wan Chai. From here, ascend Lower Stubbs Road, keeping the colonial-era Hong Kong Cemetery on your left, where mariners, tycoons and second world war veterans lie side by side.
At the Adventist Hospital, turn right up Upper Stubbs Road and then climb Peak Road to reach the wok-shaped Peak Tower, from where Central spreads out before you — especially wondrous on a sunny morning. If you are still feeling energetic, take the short climb up Mount Austin. With gradients reaching nearly 22 per cent, it will test your heart rate but will reward you with 180-degree views south towards Hong Kong’s stunning outlying islands.
Returning the way you came, have a coffee at Pacific Coffee in the Peak Tower, with its wonderful views, or an Indian breakfast at the Rajasthan Rifles in the Peak Galleria. From here, you can head south to the seaside hamlets of Stanley and Shek O by descending the way you came, and then taking Wong Nai Chung Gap Road and going over the hill to the pleasant beachside area of Repulse Bay.
At the surprisingly laid-back Shek O, have breakfast at LuLu’s, where the thick toast with jam is a favourite. Or continue on to Big Wave Bay, Hong Kong Island’s surf beach.
PS For extra distance, tack on Mount Butler.
2. Road ride on Lantau Island: Mui Wo to the Big Buddha, Tung Chung and Olympic Trail (about 50km, 1,100m ascent)
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Good for: escaping the traffic
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Not so good for: avoiding hills
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FYI: Hong Kong’s Big Buddha statue is relatively recent, having been inaugurated in 1993. But the face is modelled on a work from the 7th-century AD Buddha Vairocana of China’s Longmen Caves
While Lantau hosts Hong Kong’s international airport, its south side — whose coastline was once known for its abundance of pirates — is a paradise of sleepy villages, open roads and glorious views. Catch the ferry from Pier 6 in Central (be sure to get the one that allows freight) for the 50-minute journey to the relaxed island community of Mui Wo. Ride out of Mui Wo in the direction of the bustling traditional town of Tai O, passing the white sands of Cheung Sha Beach on your left. Cycle over the scenic Shek Pik Reservoir dam and climb to Ngong Ping, home of the city’s 34-metre bronze Big Buddha. It’s nearly 500m above sea level and the inclines are unforgiving. Once you’ve taken the obligatory selfie with the giant statue, a shopping plaza disguised as a faux traditional village offers refreshments or you can try the monks’ vegetarian nosh at the accompanying Po Lin Monastery.
From here you can either return directly to Mui Wo or, for those looking for a stiff challenge, ride back part of the way you came and turn left up the old Tung Chung Road, aka the “Old Beast”. Not to be confused with the new highway (“New Beast”) with which it partly runs parallel, the Old Beast is short but has inclines of up to nearly 25 per cent. Once you have surmounted the hill, descend to the airport satellite city of Tung Chung and head along the service road towards Hong Kong Disneyland. A few kilometres along, turn right at the village of Pak Mong to begin the Olympic Trail. This part is not strictly road-biking — the trail consists of cement paths and you will have to dismount and carry your bike up and down some staircases. But it is mostly rideable and brings you neatly back to Mui Wo for the boat ride home. Enjoy the traditional villages and lush forest along the way — but beware of slippery concrete paths during the monsoon.
3. Mountain-bike ride on Lantau Island: Chi Ma Wan and Mountain-Bike Park (23km, 666m ascent)
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Good for: close-ups with Lantau’s placid water buffalo
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Not so good for: the hot and humid summer months
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FYI: the last emperor of China’s Song dynasty, Zhao Bing, was reputedly crowned in Mui Wo before his kingdom was annihilated by the Mongols in the 13th century
Chi Ma Wan is a classic cross-country mountain-bike ride through thick vegetation around a peninsula of protected forest. Its remarkably wide range of rocky obstacles will test your skills. Beginners should only attempt it with guidance from an experienced rider. Or they can try out Mui Wo’s great new mountain-bike park at the start of the route, with its curated trails that are specially designed for all levels of rider.
In summer, Chi Ma Wan can be insufferably hot and there is an occasional infestation of spectacularly large (though basically harmless) golden orb spiders. So better to go in the cooler months. For the precise route, see here. You will need a good mountain bike, preferably dual suspension.
Catch the ferry from Central to Mui Wo. Once there, cycle to the helipad, where you will see the entrance to the bike park. Ride up there. The road forks after about 200 metres. Instead of climbing up further into the bike park, continue along the coastal trail towards Shap Long village, past a defunct prison and over a reservoir to start the Chi Ma Wan Country Trail.
At Lung Mei, or Dragon’s Tail, marked by a small statue that looks like a pineapple, turn right to start the gnarly part of Chi Ma Wan. Watch out for the drop-off early on, the rocky ledge towards the end and be sure to enjoy the fast finish. But be careful of hikers.
On the way back to Mui Wo, try out the bike park. But leave time to grab a burger down at the China Bear pub or king prawns in one of the seafood restaurants on Mui Wo’s seafront.
4. Mountain-bike ride in the New Territories: Tai Mo Shan (about 25km, ascent 1,000m)
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Good for: fast off-road downhill
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Not so good for: wet days
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FYI: Tai Mo Shan’s sealed roads are also popular with road riders
Tai Mo Shan is Hong Kong’s tallest peak and its mountain-bike trails through the surrounding country park offer some of the territory’s fastest descents. The trail starts on Route Twisk. Be sure to use a good mountain bike and bring a basic repair kit and plenty of water. There are few shops. Again, beginners should go with an experienced rider.
The first part of the route is a short climb before a fast descent through the forest on curated mountain-bike trails. After heavy soaking rains, the roots and rocks can be treacherously slippery, but in the dry season it is a dream. The trail flattens out into a series of very tricky, stony creek crossings until you come to the Ho Pui Downhill. After rocketing down it, you climb again to the top of Tin Fu Tsai, a fun, downhill cross-country ride that only takes about 10 minutes but is the pièce de résistance of the trail.
At the bottom, you can either ride out through the country park to the Gold Coast, a shopping and hotel complex, where you can share war stories over Vietnamese, Chinese or French food. Or ride the brutal climb back up to Route Twisk and call a van home.
Maps by Liz Faunce
Have we missed anything here, or are there any other great cycle rides in and around Hong Kong we should know about? Share your thoughts in the comments
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